bed.JPG

I downloaded the bed above and wanted to use it in a scene. But it only has one material zone. Where it has wood and fabric, I need more, and I'll probably want multiple fabrics too. I thought about just using masks to apply different fabrics to different areas, but the UV maps all overlap. I started to move them around but there is a bunch of them and some parts, like the pillows and the headboard have multiple.

I thought about adding more materials but selecting different parts is difficult where things are on top of each other and some of the polys are tiny.

I tried separating the bed into loose parts thinking I could add the materials that way but there was over 4000 of them. In some areas, each polygon is a loose part.

Does anyone have any other ideas on how to handle this or am I stuck doing a lot of tedious work to get the bed looking good?

It is a beautiful bed one approach but might be time consuming is clearing all the seams and remapping it to something that makes more sense for your work flow and create new material zones honestly being a glutton for punishment this is the only way I think I could proceed just clear the seams and re UV map it

Sounds like it's one of those old .3ds models. They're often more hassle to deal with than they're worth. I'm going to guess the model contains all triangulated faces? It's going to be a real problem to create seams for new UVs until you convert the triangulated faces to quads. Also, you may need to do a distance weld on the objects because chances are the vertices aren't welded together. You'll notice this if you select an object and go into edit mode, hover over some faces and press L (select linked). If you're only getting individual pieces of the object then it's not welded.

One fast way to unwrap the model with relatively useable UVs is just to select the parts of the object you need unwrapped, and use Smart UV Project. You won't need to create seams, because it will unwrap by angle. Problem is, this could result in a ton of small pieces of UV islands if the object's vertices aren't welded together and converted to quads.

You can also try using "Project from view" on some pieces. Just make sure you're viewing the object from the angle you want the UVs created.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'd forgotten about distance welding and I didn't know about selecting linked. Those helped a lot. I have it all set up as separate pieces now and I'm going to add new materials and UV maps.

Yes, it was a a 3ds file and was all tris. Tris to quads helped a lot with that. There are still some, but much less. I wouldn't have bothered if I'd found anything similar within my price range. One of these days, I'm going to have to learn to model because it's probably easier.

RedPhantom posted at 12:57PM Fri, 22 January 2021 - #4410874

Thanks for the suggestions. I'd forgotten about distance welding and I didn't know about selecting linked. Those helped a lot. I have it all set up as separate pieces now and I'm going to add new materials and UV maps.

Yes, it was a a 3ds file and was all tris. Tris to quads helped a lot with that. There are still some, but much less. I wouldn't have bothered if I'd found anything similar within my price range. One of these days, I'm going to have to learn to model because it's probably easier.

Glad you were able to get it to a useable condition. Those older .3ds models seem very handy at first glance, and very inexpensive. Typically you can find them in mass quantity for free these days. However, you can almost always expect the model will not set up for use in modern 3d environments and it may take a lot of effort to get it into working order. Most of the time, .3ds objects will import with triangulated faces, much like a STL file would, with randomly scattered parts and poor UV mapping. Split vertices and overlapping UVs are also very, very common due to the nature of the file format and the era that these models were created.

The Smart UV Project and/or "Project From View" options in the UV Editor can really help speed up the cleaning process for these models, but sometimes it's even easier to just model the thing again from scratch. Retopology could also be easier to do.

PS: If UV projection doesn't work well on some parts, try Box Mapping. It's not a perfect solution, but it can work on some shapes very quickly.

Thanks for all the help. It really made a difference. The bed looks pretty good now. Just need to finish the rest of the room and populate it.

Looking good RedPhantom

Hey , the bed looks a lot better now. Nice job...